Category: Scene and Be Seen

Roberto Rodriguez is the owner of Tablas Restaurant in Salinas, on Puerto Rico’s South coast.

Land of mixology

By Peter Martin 1307

Whether you fancy the classics like a Moscow Mule or an Old Fashioned, or seek the thrill of a hot new alcoholic elixir, you won’t be disappointed. The island’s urbane cocktail map leads to an eclectic mix of hip bars and lounges where dedicated mixing professionals whip up memorable cocktails for today’s discerning drinkers.

2018

Add artfully crafted cocktails to your list of things to look forward to 
when visiting Puerto Rico.

Whether you fancy the classics like a Moscow Mule or an Old Fashioned, or seek the thrill of a hot new alcoholic elixir, you won’t be disappointed. The island’s urbane cocktail map leads to an eclectic mix of hip bars and lounges where dedicated mixing professionals whip up memorable cocktails for today’s discerning drinkers.

Bars are aplenty in Puerto Rico, people are drinking and having fun, and there are plenty of beverage practitioners behind bar counters ready to satisfy the thirst for tantalizing libations.

Menus cater to the casual drinker or the cocktail obsessive. You’ll find the new, the classics, and the latest trends, like the current resurgence of Polynesia-inspired Tiki cocktails, heady mixes of high-octane rums and fruit flavors, syrups based on almonds, coconut or pineapple, cherry and banana liqueurs just to mention some of the ingredients that go into these favored concoctions.

Equally popular is the emphasis on health and farm-to-table. Cocktails made with vegetables and fruits are all the rage these days and Puerto Rico’s beverage practitioners are finding exciting ways of pairing spirits with unlikely partners such as spinach, cucumbers, beets, tomatoes, and fresh herbs like basil, sage, mint, or rosemary, some of which are locally sourced for an even fresher, healthy taste.

  • Roberto Berdecia from La Factoria in Old San Juan was named Bartender of the Year 2017 by the 
International  Rum Conference.
  • Luis Pagan from La Coctelera won the 2018 World Class Bartender Puerto Rico Competition.
  • La Casita de Rones at Plaza Darsenas in Old San Juan hosts bartending competitions.
  • For the past nine years, the World Class Competition has stood out for its educational seminars for bartenders who work at premium bars and restaurants in Puerto Rico, which offer the Diageo Reserve brands.

Thanks to competitions that advance brands and promote higher levels of creativity among the island’s bartenders, the opening of new bar concepts and the rise of the mixologist, Puerto Rico can pride in having a world-class cocktail 
scene.

“The cocktail scene in Puerto Rico has grown 150 percent in less than five years. We’re at the level of many cities in the world,” enthuses Roberto Berdecia, a World Class bartender and co-owner of several bars, including Jungle Bird on Canals Street, off the famous Santurce market, and the popular La Factoria in the historic section of San Juan.

Based in what was once old San Juan’s most iconic bar, Hijos de Borinquen (The sons of Borinquen), La Factoria is actually four distinctive bars within an old corner building whose rundown facade and maze-like interior affect a carefully cultivated environment of chick grunge, in the style of a grand movie set.

Soon, it will add another three bars: one on the second floor and the other two stem from the recent purchase of La Cubanita, next door to La Factoria. Actually, both businesses are part of the same building so connecting the new spaces was no problem.

“We have bartenders who in competitions rank among the top four in the world and bars that have won prizes at the national and international level. I always think we still have a ways to go, but I believe that’s how you keep growing,” Berdecia said.

Star bartender Luis Pagan from La Coctelera, a small but very pleasant bar on Loiza Street, near the Condado tourist area, agrees the cocktail scene is flourishing but finds the local palate needs to expand a bit further to be on a par with the leading drinking capitals of the world, “the island has very good bartenders and the level of creativity is growing,” said Pagan, who is considered among the island’s top 10 bartenders.

Further proof of Puerto Rico’s rising status as a land of mixology is the scheduled opening of a rarefied resource: a laboratory to foster experimentation and innovation in the craft of mixing drinks.

The brainchild of Berdecia and his Factoria partners, Leslie Cofresi and Pablo Rodriguez, the lab called Licoreria Miramar will be open to professionals and aficionados on a membership basis. The 4,000-square-foot space, in San Juan’s Miramar section, will have all the equipment necessary for users to explore new ideas and 
techniques.

  • Roberto Rodriguez is the owner of Tablas Restaurant in Salinas, on Puerto Rico’s South coast.
  • Puerto Rican mixologist Joymar Herrin took the People’s Choice category with her concoction Sand Break at the Wine & Spirits Wholesalers of America in Las Vegas.
  • Roberto Rodriguez is the owner of Tablas Restaurant in Salinas, on Puerto Rico’s South coast.
  • Tiki cocktails are in like Hurricanes, Mai Tais, and Planter’s Punch.
  • Bartender Night at Santaella. In photo, from left to right, Rafael Reyes, Lauren Mote, Jonatan Melendez, Xiomara Rosado and Michael Norat.
  • Award-winning cocktail, Sand Break is made with 3 Star Barrilito Rum.

Such creative laboratories dedicated to alcoholic beverages are not unheard of even if the concept owes credit to Spanish gastronomic superstar Ferran Adria whose famous restaurant el Bulli, on Spain’s Costa Brava, functioned as a laboratory for the creation of haute cuisine dishes. Adria popularized molecular gastronomy by applying principles of physics, chemistry, and biology to the preparation of food, creating spectacular new flavor sensations. Not surprisingly, the world of spirits was inspired to pick up this new science, bringing the art of mixology to a whole new level.

Basically, bartenders and mixologists aim for the same thing: to deliver a wow drink. Still, there are differences between the two roles. Bartenders know all the basic drinks and tend bar; mixologists spin the old classics into exciting new cocktails and create new taste experiences using different techniques. The two categories are not mutually exclusive: a bartender can also be a mixologist and vice versa.

Further proof of Puerto Rico’s rising status as a land of mixology is the scheduled opening of a rarefied resource: a laboratory to foster experimentation and innovation in the craft of mixing drinks.

Being a mixologist calls for a great deal of knowledge, according to Jorge Lopez Albarran, outgoing president of the Puerto Rico Bartenders Association. An affiliate since 1992 of the International Bartenders Association, the group, which has around 800 members island wide, has contributed to professionalizing the field through workshops, courses, and competitions whose winners go on to participate in international events, such as the upcoming Pan-American Cocktail Championship in Havana, Cuba, in August, and the IBA World Cocktail Championship to be held in Estonia in October.

Think of the mixologist as a type of polymath. As described by Lopez, he must know about spirits, wines, coffee, the pairing of foods and drinks, which spirits go best with cigars and chocolate. Lopez is an award winning master blender and consultant whose company, Gourmet Business Solutions, supplies ingredients like syrups used in making drinks and foods.

He also must know about molecular mixology, nutrition, and techniques like infusing and smoking cocktails. According to Lopez, “He must have more experience and years of study.”

Puerto Rico has various educational institutions that train people for work as a bartender or mixologist but this is a career that some take up without any formal training. Others come to it by chance as happened to bartender/mixologist Roberto Rodriguez, the owner of Tablas Restaurant in Salinas, on Puerto Rico’s South coast.

Rodriguez, who is 34, took a job in the banquets division of the Ponce Hilton Hotel to earn extra money while studying to be a physical education teacher at the Pontifical Catholic University of Puerto Rico in Ponce, where he excelled as an elite athlete. When a position opened up at the bar, he signed up out of curiosity. Besides, none of his co-workers was interested. He had no experience mixing drinks but he knew he was a quick learner and could rise to the challenge; besides, as he told his superior, “Tell me the recipe once and I can repeat it for the rest of my life.”

Although he went on to study cooking at the Institute of Banking and Commerce and bartending at the Puerto Rico Hotel School, Rodriguez admitted he wasn’t convinced bartending could be a permanent career but in 2009 he represented Puerto Rico at IBA’s annual competition in Berlin and “it opened my mind. It taught me this was a serious profession and you could live off it.” More importantly, “I didn’t win this competition but it made me completely fall in love with the industry,” Rodriguez said.

In 2013 and 2014, Rodriguez was part of the Puerto Rico Hotel and Tourism Association culinary team that won the Taste of the Caribbean competition. He has been named Bartender of the Year and Bartender of the Caribbean, also entering the mixologists’ hall of fame in these competitions.

A year and a half ago Rodriguez parlayed his experience working in hotel and independent bars into opening his own business, Tablas Craft Cocktail, a breezy open air restaurant in Salinas that features more than two dozen cocktails of his own creation that have been recognized in local and outside competitions. “I’m doing very well but it was a challenge after Maria,” he said.

La Coctelera’s Pagan is a slightly built young man with a hip hop haircut and an easy smile who looks younger than his 30 years of age. Turns out that he’s a natural at his craft and never formally studied to be a bartender. In fact, his first experience as a bartender was kind of a trial by fire. He was working in a restaurant while going to college and one busy December day the bar was short an employee and he was asked to fill in. He had made it a habit to watch the bartenders at work so he managed just fine.

Tending bar didn’t last long, however. Pagan said he dropped out of university when his mother fell ill and decided to study holistic medicine, going on to work for many years as a masseur. Four years ago he came back to bartending only to find to his surprise that the cocktail scene had changed dramatically: different cocktails, new ingredients, mixologists, homemade infusions.

To get up to speed he studied on his own and signed up for competitions. In 2016 he was a finalist in the Puerto Rico edition of the Diageo World Class event and last year he won the title of Bombay Sapphire Most imaginative Bartender by preparing two cocktails — one creative and the other a gin and tonic — in the assigned time of 13 minutes. Named “The Four Thieves,” his imaginative drink struck an intriguing balance of tastes and aromas from ingredients that included Bombay Sapphire gin, lime juice, spice-infused honey syrup featuring clove, eucalyptus and cinnamon, rosemary sprigs and sage leaves.

“Competitions are a challenge, they motivate you to be more creative,” he said in an interview at La Coctelera, which has a simple but appealing decor. Its centerpiece, next to the bar counter, is a striking wall assemblage of square and rectangular blonde-wood cabinets filled with colorful liquor bottles.

Puerto Rico has plenty of liquor competitions. According to Joel Vasquez, American Beverage Marketers’ Caribbean general manager, the island’s liquor distributors have created their own competition platforms “in order to give value to and elevate the knowledge about their brands.” International competitions with Puerto Rico editions also provide exposure for local participants.

Mixo Madness, an event developed by the Crafted Barrel Group for Rums of Puerto Rico, seeks out the best bartenders in various categories; winners go on to compete on the mainland at a grand finale pitting finalists from other states. Bartenders are rated on how well they mix flavors, knowledge of local rums, technique, even how they express themselves and interact with the public.

Another CBG event is the Speed 4 Tips competition: it tests the bartender’s speed, correct usage of techniques, ability to remember recipes, neatness and precision.

The biggest competition in the world is the Diageo Reserve World Class which is held in 60 countries, including Puerto Rico and since its launch in 2009, this competition “has supported, educated and inspired over 250,000 bartenders through its training and advocacy program,” according to the World Class Club website.

For participants, competitions are not just an opportunity to show off their skill, talent and professionalism but also a chance to learn from interacting with and observing other professionals. It doesn’t hurt that prizes include traveling, either nationally or internationally, as an ambassador for the sponsoring liquor brand.

Sometimes, a competition can prove a turning point for a bartender as was the case for Tablas’ Rodriguez, or even teach an important lesson as happened to Berdecia when he participated in the 2011 World Class Final held in India. He had won the Puerto Rico leg of the competition with two creative cocktails, one of which he named in honor of murdered Guatemalan environmental activist Myrna Mack. A variation of the Classic Rob Roy, a mix of Scottish whisky with vermouth and amaro, his version teamed up Guatemalan Ron Zacapa with vermouth, apple infusion and orange amaro.

Although he prepared for the international showdown by reading 10 to 15 books of recipes, Berdecia realized that winning wouldn’t be easy. So he recalibrated his attitude and decided that “instead of going to win, he would go to learn.”
Over at the Wine & Spirits Wholesalers of America in Las Vegas, Puerto Rican mixologist Joymar Herrin took the People’s Choice category with her concoction Sand Break made out of 3 Star Barrilito Rum.

Sand Break also has a pinch of orange, coconut, lime, egg white and a splash of Disaronno amaretto. Combine all ingredients in shaker and serve in a glass with its rim covered with brown sugar and coconut.

“Sand Break is my interpretation of the moment right before emerging in the ocean. Your feet are in the sand and the waves are breaking on the edge. As a good ambassador of my island I like to use quality products that presents something authentic and traditional of Puerto Rico,” said Herrin.

Puerto Rico’s bar scene is evolving and getting better. In recent years, bartenders have noticed a greater openness by local drinkers to try out new drinks instead of staying within the confines of a safe comfort zone.

Drinkers are more demanding and are changing consumption habits: they are more likely to savor a few cocktails than drink to excess, according to Tapas’ Rodriguez.

They also are more informed and will look up information about cocktails on the internet so they know if the bartender gets it right, Lopez said.

In a service industry based on making people feel good, the experience of having a great drink in a great bar is ultimately what brings repeat customers.

“People may forget your name, the drink you fixed for them and even what you talked about but they never forget how you made them feel, how you treated them, the service you gave,” said Pagan.

If the bar and bartender made the person feel good, you can be sure they’ll be back.

Altitude is the hottest new cocktail ingredient

Puerto Rico, known as the Culinary Capital of the Caribbean, has some amazing restaurants with stunning decor, but nothing beats a hot rooftop bar. Chilling on a rooftop never gets old especially when combining breathtaking views, tropical Caribbean breezes, and world-class cocktails.

2018

Puerto Rico, known as the Culinary Capital of the Caribbean, has some amazing restaurants with stunning decor, but nothing beats a hot rooftop bar. Chilling on a rooftop never gets old especially when combining breathtaking views, tropical Caribbean breezes, and world-class cocktails.

Whether you are seeking spectacular views of the ocean, bay, cobblestone streets, historic homes, or a bustling city, you’ll find what you’re looking for at these cool, classy, and spectacular rooftop bars.

Eter Rooftop & Lounge

After a long day, the Eter Rooftop at Ciqala Luxury Suites in Miramar with its endless views of San Juan is the ideal place to watch the sunset, or take a dip in the pool accompanied by seasonal cocktails and scrumptious culinary Caribbean infusion creations.

The View: Miramar and San Juan Bay.
What to Order: “Mofongo” stuffed with skirt steak.
Insider Tip: Brunch of champions every weekend with free valet.
Location: 752 Ave. Manuel Fernandez Juncos, San Juan; (787) 998-1176.

MIST ROOFTOP Bar+Kitchen

At MIST ROOFTOP Bar+Kitchen at San Juan Water Beach Club Hotel, you get awe-inspiring vistas of the Atlantic Ocean, white sand beach, and the incredible skyline of Isla Verde glittering with towering hotels and condos. The MIST ROOFTOP ambiance features sexy white pillow sofas and couches for total relaxation, a custom designed Cîroc bar serving a unique selection of cocktails and wines, and a restaurant with mouthwatering lunch, dinner, and a one-of-a-kind brunch culinary delights.

For a seductive evening under the stars, the MIST ROOFTOP offers daily Happy Hour specials as well as the sounds of electronic and house music.

The View: Atlantic Ocean and Isla Verde skyline.
What to Order: Signature pizza verde with Boursin cheese, kale, brussels sprouts, asparagus and mushrooms and risotto sprouts served with pork, butifarra and pecorino cheese.
Insider Tip: Things heat up with DJs spinning house and lounge music from Thursday to Saturday, starting at 9 p.m.
Location: 2 Tartak Street, Isla Verde; (787) 728-3666.

Al Fresco Rooftop Wine Bar

Located on the corner of Sol and Cruz streets in Old San Juan, this super cozy terrace perched atop a colonial rustic orange painted building is also home to the quaint and amazing St. Germain Bistro & Café and The Mezzanine bar, which serve a variety of delicious, mouthwatering tapas and fine wines.

The View: Historic Old San Juan.
What to Order: Homemade sangria or wine with tapas.
Insider Tip: Thursday nights are Ladies Night! Enjoy 2-for-1 drinks from 4 p.m. to 8 p.m.
Location: 156 Calle Sol, Old San Juan; (787) 723-3427.

Punto de Vista

Located on the rooftop of the Hotel Milano in Old San Juan, Punto de Vista has a well-deserved reputation for serving the best mofongo relleno in the city. A glass wall spanning the width of the dining room offers its guests views for days while drinking and dining outdoors provides vistas of the capitol building, San Cristobal Fort, San Juan City Hall, the San Juan Bay and Calle Fortaleza below. So bring your camera or pop out your Iphone and be ready to capture amazing selfies with stunning sunsets in the background.

The View: Old City and San Juan Bay.
What to Order: Mofongo (garlic-flavored mashed plantains) with choice of chicken, shrimp, pork or skirt steak with fresh garlic sauce or sautéed in a white wine mango peach creole sauce.
Insider Tip: Tip: Buy 1 get 1 free mojitos every day until 5:00 p.m. and Medalla beer on tap for just $2.
Location: 307 Calle Fortaleza, Old San Juan;(787) 725-4860.

Olive Boutique Hotel

O:live Rooftop atop the luxury O:live Boutique Hotel is the epitome of chic and sophistication, where even its location screams exclusivity. It’s rooftop bar even has a pool, completing the ultimate oasis package. The Rooftop offers a taste of the high life inspired by the Mediterranean travels of the property’s owners, attentive and helpful staff that looks out on the high-rises of Condado and the waters of the Condado Lagoon.

The View: Condado Lagoon.
What to Order: Order a bite from the enticing menu of Sage restaurant operated by Chef Mario Pagan, one of Puerto Rico’s top chefs who participated in Food Network’s Iron Chef.
Insider Tip: Must try signature drink Kiwi Collins especially at sunset.
Location: Aguadilla St. #55, Condado; (787) 705-9994.

O:live Rooftop looks out on the high-rises of Condado and the waters of the Condado Lagoon.

O:live Rooftop looks out on the high-rises of Condado and the waters of the Condado Lagoon.

La Terraza de San Juan

Nothing is more relaxing than taking a dip in a rooftop terrace infinity plunge pool while enjoying birds eye views of Old San Juan and sipping a tropical drink from its patio bar. Guests can chill out watching cruise ships come and go, admire beautiful sunsets over the Old City and San Juan Bay. On the very clearest of days, you can see El Yunque Rainforest, located at the eastern end of Puerto Rico.

The View: Old San Juan and San Juan Bay.
What to Order: Mimosas and smoothies.
Insider Tip: Tasty tapas and cocktail menu in evenings from Thursday to Saturday.
Location: 262 Calle Sol, Old San Juan; (787) 722-2014.

AC Rooftop

Indulge on delicious drinks, warm breezes, and superb dining at this unique rooftop lounge at AC Hotel San Juan that features a swimming pool and one-of-a-kind views of the bustling Condado district. This stylish property with a European urban vibe is steps away from the beach and has modern décor with contemporary furnishings.

The View: Condado District.
What to Order: Light tapas.
Insider Tip: Co-working space by day and hub of social buzz by night with live DJ and bands.
Location: 1369 Ashford Ave, Condado (787) 827-7280.

  • Rooftop lounge at AC Hotel San Juan features a swimming pool and one-of-a-kind views of the bustling Condado district.

Bay Pool Bar & Grille

The rooftop Bay Pool Bar & Grille at the Sheraton Puerto Rico Hotel and Casino overlooks the marina in the heart of the city that captures vibrant ocean and bay views, as well as the city’s varied cityscape, from the gleaming condo towers of Condado to Spanish colonial splendor.

The terrace situated on the hotel’s fourth floor has plush sofas and cabanas, and a great bar and grill; there is nowhere else you will want to be during a splendid San Juan afternoon. There is an impressive menu of tropical cocktails and frozen drinks, and a simple menu that delivers with great taste.

The View: San Juan Bay and cruise port.
What to Order: Chino Latino wrap, fish tacos, mahi mahi skewers and guava chicken wings.
Insider Tip: Reserve your pool cabana early; voted one of the best hotel pools in Puerto Rico by US News.
Location: 200 Convention Boulevard in San Juan, (787) 993-3500.

Vistas

Vistas rooftop terrace at Vistas Restaurant and Cocktail Lounge has spectacular panned views of the city of Ponce.
Imagine sitting high above the town on a warm and sultry evening while sipping on a cocktail experiencing a cosmopolitan vibe while overlooking at one of the most recognizable landmarks in Puerto Rico, Parque de Bombas (former Ponce Fire House) with its emblematic black and red colors and Cruzeta El Vigia (The Watchman Cross). The staff at Vistas is friendly and the food is yummy as well.

The View: Nearly all of Ponce.
What to Order: Pasta, pork loin, St. Louis ribs, BBQ chicken and mofongo.
Insider Tip: $4 Margaritas Happy Hour every Tuesday and Wednesday and a 2-for-1 Mojitos and Sangria Happy Hour every Thursday from 4 p.m. to 11 p.m.
Location: Cristina Street #76, Ponce; (939) 350-2407.

So make sure you take advantage during your visit of Puerto Rico’s near-perfect year-round weather and stress-reducing views.

Tito Matos is the leader of the band, Viento de Agua.

Puerto Rican stars in the global music scene

By Eugenio Hopgood 1188

From contemporary jazz, to Carlos Santana’s Latin rock band,
to World Music; Puerto Rican top performers weave
traditional local sounds into a diverse musical production.

2018

From contemporary jazz, to Carlos Santana’s Latin rock band,
to World Music; Puerto Rican top performers weave
traditional local sounds into a diverse musical production.

Two sax players – David Sanchez and Miguel Zenon- have established themselves as stars of the contemporary international jazz scene. Paoli Mejias, a master conga drummer, has paused in his solo career to travel the world as a multi-percussionist for Carlos Santana. And Tito Matos has been a critical figure in the renewed vitality of the Afro-Puerto Rican plena tradition and its contribution to World Music.

The quality and success of these performers solidify Puerto Rico’s ability to produce world-class musicians.

Sanchez and Zenon: from humble beginnings to world’s jazz elite

David Sanchez and Miguel Zenon, both jazz sax players, composers, and bandleaders; grew up and started their musical education in Puerto Rico. Both settled in New York City, where they developed highly successful careers and became international stars in their own right.

Sanchez, who is 48, has the looks and moves of a 28-year-old athlete. He walks into La Junta, a small club in Santurce’s Loiza Street checking messages on his cell phone, greeting friends and fans with a shy smile, wearing bright green sneakers, black slacks, and polo.

After a while, the leader of the local jazz trio performing that night calls Sanchez on stage, and he plays two tunes ending with a vibrant, engaging solo that sends the crowd its feet. It is a feature guest performance, and a sort of aperitif to promote his concert “Carib” — a blend of Afro Caribbean, Haitian, and Puerto Rican influences — held the following weekend at Old San Juan’s historic Tapia Theater.

  • Paoli Mejias is one of the foremost Conga drummers in the world.
  • Legendary bassist and two-time Grammy winner Eddie Gomez.
  • David Sanchez is a Grammy-winning jazz tenor saxophonist from Puerto Rico.

After high school, Sanchez won a scholarship to study music in Rutgers University in New Jersey where he took classes with masters like Kenny Barron and Ted Dunbar. Soon Sanchez jumped into the New York jazz scene with pianists Eddie Palmieri and Hilton Ruiz, and trumpeter Claudio Roditi.

But his career took off at 23 when he was recruited to play in the Dizzy Gillespie United Nations Orchestra. Mentored by the legendary Gillespie, Sanchez toured 27 countries and a hundred U.S. cities in three years with the band, drawing attention as the ensemble’s young virtuoso tenor sax player.

Sanchez went on to record eight albums as leader of his ensemble and earning six Grammy Award nominations. He won a Grammy for the CD “Coral” in 2005. Four of his releases have been named Billboard top jazz albums.

The CD “Carib,” which will be the first volume of a series, is scheduled to be released this year.

“The concept is a fusion of the Congo-Guinea traditions of Haiti with variations of the different Bomba rhythms and chants of Puerto Rico. It’s not only the rhythms but also the melodies and cadence of these folkloric songs that have inspired me,” he explained. Haitian music had a significant influence all over the region from Puerto Rico to New Orleans, he adds.

Last April Sanchez released the single “Canto,” inspired by Haitian folk chant. It is a haunting and intimate tune he dedicated to the memory of his wife Karla Davis Sanchez, who passed away at age 50 in August 2017.

Sanchez grew up in the town of Guaynabo listening to his parents’ records of classic Latin music greats from the 50’s and 60’s like Machito’s Orchestra and Tito Rodriguez’s big band. He sang with his mother and brothers in the church choir and began playing the conga drum at eight-years-old but took up the tenor sax at school by the time he was 12.

In high school, he got a hold of some Miles Davis, and John Coltrane records were wholly absorbed into jazz. “I wasn’t thinking about making it as a professional musician. I just loved it so much, and that journey took me to that path and next thing I knew I was playing with famous guys and thinking to myself hey I didn’t know I was going to get paid for this,” Sanchez recalled laughing.
The Grammy Award winner emphasizes the need to invest in art education on the island. He praises San Juan’s Free School of Music, where he and Zenon also studied.

“That’s a treasure, and you have to invest in it,” he said. “The graduates of that school play the first chair in the New York Philharmonic, like clarinetist Ricardo Morales. You have bassist Eddie Gomez, myself, Miguel Zenon in jazz. In other genres, from (rapper) Tego Calderon to (salsa singer) Gilberto Santa Rosa, are you kidding me? What governor or businessman can say they have had that much influence outside of Puerto Rico? Just think about it.”

After kicking off his tour in San Juan, Sanchez ended 2016 introducing his “Carib” project in Barcelona, Paris and the Jazz in Marciac festival in southern France. That year he performed as a featured special guest in the International Jazz Day Concert in the White House hosted by then-president Barrack Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama.

Earlier in March 2017, Sanchez performed in Puerto Rico Heineken Jazz Fest, the island’s most important yearly jazz event, which also featured Miguel Zenon’s 
Quartet.

He has continued presenting “Carib” throughout 2018 in concerts in San Francisco, Santa Monica, Phoenix, in the Earshot Jazz Fest in Seattle, and in Chicago’s Jazz Showcase. Sanchez alternates this activity with national and European tours with the San Francisco Jazz Collective, an all-star ensemble, of which he has been a member for the last five years.

The San Francisco-based collective has included Bobby Hutcherson and Joe Lovano among its members. Sanchez performs side by side with fellow Puerto Rican star Miguel Zenon, one of the founders of the group in 2004.

Zenon, who just turned 41, has a similarly brilliant career as an alto sax master, leader, composer, arranger, and educator. In 1996 he went to Berklee School of music in Boston after he decided not to accept a scholarship at the University of Puerto Rico at Mayaguez Engineering School, to pursue his musical goals.

After he graduated, Zenon went to New York and completed a Masters Degree in Performance in 2001 at the Manhattan School of Music starting a brilliant career playing with the David Sanchez group. He was mentored in this early stage by Sanchez, who was already established in the New York City and international jazz scene and had been impressed by Zenon’s talent since they met in Boston.

The path hasn’t been easy for Zenon who was born and raised until the age of 12 in San Juan’s Llorens Torres public housing project, one of the toughest in the city. Intelligence, talent, and hard work have been his recipe for success. “When I finished high school in 1994, there was no formal education in jazz in Puerto Rico, so I had to go out, but I didn’t have the money. Then I spent a couple of years searching for funding and working to save some money by doing all kinds of gigs; dance bands or whatever came up and teaching until I was able to get into Berklee,” Zenon remembered.

At the age of 24, Zenon started his recording career as a bandleader with a bang. The Miguel Zenon Quartet’s debut album, Looking Forward, was selected by the New York Times as the Alternative Jazz Recording of the Year.

Zenon has kept producing great recordings and performances in the U.S and worldwide receiving critical acclaim and obtaining multiple Grammy nominations. Jazz Review magazine All About Jazz hailed his second album, “Ceremonial” (2004) as a “head-on crash of Latin, Jazz and Classical traditions–modern Jazz at it’s 
very best.”

This mixture and exploration of influences is a big part of Zenon’s career as it is also true about that of Sanchez. In 2008 Zenon became a MacArthur Fellow, and the institution described him as “creating an entirely new jazz language for the 21st Century.” A fellowship from the Guggenheim Foundation supported his album, “Esta Plena,” exploring the traditional plena rhythm of Puerto Rico.
Zenon explores multiple angles with straight-ahead jazz, classical and Latin jazz and Caribbean folk influences but he sees it as a reflection of where jazz music stands today. “I’m from a generation that grew up around very global and inclusive jazz; one that is opened up to include information that comes from other art forms, like literature. It’s the time we live in, and the music reflects that. It also reflects my need to discover myself as a Puerto Rican, as a Latin American musician in the jazz scene and to see what I have to give,” Zenon explained.

The Miguel Zenon Quartet has been together for 15 years and features drummer Henry Cole, also from Puerto Rico, Venezuelan pianist Luis Perdomo, and Austrian-American bass player Hans Glawischnig-Klavishnik with Zenon on alto sax. Their last album, “Típico,” was released in February 2017 and has been played by the quartet in Europe, America, and Puerto Rico.

One of Zenon’s favorite projects is the Cultural Caravan, a series of free concerts that he produces in rural small towns on the island, introducing the classics of jazz to audiences that generally are not exposed to this music.

“We have done eleven concerts in five years, and I really enjoy it,” says Zenon, who usually starts with an educational talk about the music they will perform and organizes the Caravan with money from donations and out of his own pocket. “We use jazz to expose a cultural experience to society; I do it with jazz because that is what I can offer, so I see it as a cultural investment.”
Zenon continues to tour with the S.F Jazz Collective, where he is the senior member and only remaining founder. In May, the ensemble finished the Spring Tour with gigs in New York’s Jazz Standard, Detroit, Denver, and San Francisco, where they played originals together with arrangements by Miles Davis. In October, they will put together a new season dedicated to the music of Brazilian composer Carlos Antonio Jobim and kick off their Fall Tour on the West Coast and two weeks of concert dates in Europe.

Zenon, who is also a professor at the prestigious New England Conservatory of Music in Boston, will release a new album in late September of his compositions for Alto Sax and String Quartet titled “I am the Tradition.”

“It combines jazz elements, contemporary music and folklore inspired in several Puerto Rican musical traditions such as the Rosary songs, the Three King’s Promesas, among others, and I’m very excited about it,” he said.

Tito Matos, all 
about the roots

Tito Matos is the leader of Viento de Agua, a band that will impress music fans in any part of the world with their afro Caribbean rhythms mixed with sharp jazzy arrangements and a pulsing beat.

In 1994 Matos went to City University of New York to study landscaping but began playing with Los Pleneros de la 21, New York’s leading plena group. He made a name for himself in the big city. In the ten years, he has lived in New York; Matos has collaborated in musical fusions with pop superstars, jazz artists, and Salsa greats.

Those gigs include a Latin percussion performance with Celine Dion and Gloria Estefan at Radio City Music Hall and performances and a recording with Puerto Rican mega pop star Ricky Martin.

In 1997, Matos founded Viento de Agua with reedman and arranger Ricardo Pons. The 13-piece band created essential pathways in the evolution of Puerto Rico’s bomba and plena African rooted genres.

Matos returned to Puerto Rico in 2004 and reconstructed Viento de Agua on the island where it remains active. The band has released three albums and work in two different formats – the 13-piece group and a smaller version of six or seven players.

A third version of the ensemble, dedicated to straight ahead plena music, is made up of pandereta drums and chants. It mainly does gigs at pubs, small clubs or folk music events and is known as La Maquina Insular.

Matos, known for his engaging onstage persona, is highly regarded around the world as a premier performer and expert in bomba and plena and other Caribbean rhythm’s. Last year the 49-year-old musician was at Austria’s Vienna University offering workshops for music teachers. In France, he also conducted workshops and played the music for dance performances. His Viento de Agua band has been featured in the American Folk Music Festival in Bangor, Maine, and the Smithsonian Folk life Festival in Washington D.C., which is considered the premier world music festival.

Matos has also increased his touring activity outside of Puerto Rico. “We have just returned from a tour that took us to New York, Chicago, and San Francisco. In June, we’ll be in Maryland with La Maquina Insular, and in September we’ll be performing with our large band, Viento de Agua, in the North Carolina Folk Festival in Greensboro, so we’re on the move. The Puerto Rican diáspora in the U.S. has been very supportive of local musicians, especially those of traditional genres, inviting us to perform and even funding events in the island,” Matos explained.

One of the things Tito Matos enjoys about performing his music for an international audience is that people from very different countries and cultures will respond enthusiastically to the mix of plena and other Caribbean sounds that his ensembles play.
“Plena has a simplicity to it. And when it is well played, when you get to feel it, it enters through your feet, gets into your belly, and you need to move and dance,” Matos said with a laugh.

Paoli Mejias – master drummer,on tour with Santana

Paoli Mejias never took a music lesson in his life. His love at first hearing with the sound of the Conga drums sparked an obsession that led him to become one of the foremost Conga drummers in the world and a master of multiple percussion instruments from different cultures.

Paoli Mejias is the master drummer on tour with Carlos Santana.

Plaza del Quinto Centenario (Quincentennial Plaza) was inaugurated in 1992 to celebrate the 500th birthday of the founding of the New World by the Spanish.

“It was an instinctive thing. When I heard the drums as a kid, I suddenly felt so connected to that sound. I felt the need to have a drum and play it. I got myself a little conga drum and just imitated the sounds I heard in records. I didn’t even have this dream about being a musician. I just did it because I felt passionate about it and would play all day without stopping until my family begged me to stop at night,” Mejia remembered with a broad smile.

By age 14, Mejias had moved to Toa Baja where he began to play with a Calypso group in the hotels of Dorado, and at 17 he participated in legendary rumba jam sessions in Rio Piedras with conga masters Giovanni Hidalgo and Richie Flores. Mejias jumped to the big stage at age 23 as a bongo and conga player for multi-Grammy laureate, salsa, and Latin jazz bandleader Eddie Palmieri. “There I made a name for myself because I was featured as a conguero doing many solo improvisations. We did France, Germany, UK, Spain, all of Europe and the U.S.,” he said. Reedman Paquito D’Rivera and pianist Chick Correa are among the other jazz greats with whom Mejias has performed.

In 2005 Mejias decided to go his own way and formed the Paoli Mejias Latin Jazz Quintet and released three independent albums. The first one “Mi Tambor” was nominated for a Latin Grammy in the Latin Jazz category competing with legends as Poncho Sanchez and Cuban pianist Bebo Valdes. For several years the quintet played on the international jazz circuit of festivals and clubs.

“I put together my own group because I like to break old patterns and rules and I hate doing the same things, the same way all the time,” said the 47-year-old percussionist. “I tried to incorporate other musical influences into the conga playing, sounds from India, Greece, Africa and Puerto Rico, for example. It used to be that Latin jazz congueros did mostly Afro-Cuban jazz more or less but I wanted to expand that, and I did.”

Then Mejias paused his career as a bandleader to accept an invitation he could not refuse. In 2013, he was recruited as the conguero and multi-ethnic percussionist in the band of legendary Rock guitarist and pioneer of the Latin Rock sound, Carlos Santana. For several years, Santana had used different percussionists and was searching the right person for a steady job, and he found Paoli.

“This is a big organization led by a megastar,” notes Paoli. “And it requires certain energy, a positive attitude on stage, and they found this in me. Carlos says that he sees the light in me, those are his words, not mine,” he laughed. “He told me that he sees in me something he expects of band members: to be someone that adds positively not only in the music but in the good energy, the discipline, the ability to get along with the rest of the band, and the idea is that this energy projects itself on the stage to the audience and everybody can feel it,” Mejias added.

The Santana band is always on tour doing 40 concerts a year in Las Vegas’ Mandalay Bay House of Blues where Santana is a resident artist. Mejias and wife Sarah Vogel recently bought a house in her hometown of Seattle, and they live part of the year there and part in Puerto Rico.

But most of the time Mejias is in Vegas or on the road with Santana and is continuously on the move. This year Mejias played with Santana in Bahrain, United Arab Emirates, as part of the major Grand Prix race, and toured South Africa, with concerts in Johannesburg and Capetown. “In two weeks we’ll be with Santana in Las Vegas where we do four months a year, and we will have two European Tours in the rest of 2018 that include cities in Spain, Italy, France, Finland, and Norway among others,” the master percussionist explained.

“I see this stage with Santana as a parenthesis in my career as a group leader, and at some point, I’ll be back because it’s important for me to be able to display my musical creativity and concepts to the fullest extent,” he said. But no matter how hectic and demanding his calendar with Santana may be, Mejias he has kept producing original music and releasing various single tracks.
“Then I realized I have enough material for a CD so I am working on the final mixing of two of those tracks and it will be ready for release this year,” he said. “My previous albums have been mostly of jazz music, but these have some salsa tracks, and also my original fusions and invented polyrhythm. They all have music and lyrics written and performed by me,” Mejias added.

“Oh, I forgot to tell you, my signature conga with Latin Percussion just came out, it’s called ‘Jazzambia,’ the name of one of my first recordings.” LP signature congas are considered a sort of Hall of Fame distinction for Conga drummers. “What’s so unique is that I was able to design my signature conga, which is not how it usually works, so I’m very happy about it.”

The new slots called Jackpot del Encanto introduced to 13 casinos around the island allow customers to opt for a bigger prize of. $20,000 or higher with betting a minimum of 40 cents and a maximum of $2.

Luck of the Island

By Amy Gordon 879

On the Island of Enchantment, casinos are much more than just a place to try your luck; they are entertainment destinations in their own right. It’s where world-class dining, legendary hospitality, live shows, and interactive gaming come together to create an unforgettable atmosphere of local fun and flavor.

2017

Glitz! Glamour! Games! Gambling! It’s time for a night out at Puerto Rico’s world-class casinos for newbies or those who have a few sessions under your belt.

On the Island of Enchantment, casinos are much more than just a place to try your luck; they are entertainment destinations in their own right. It’s where world-class dining, legendary hospitality, live shows, and interactive gaming come together to create an unforgettable atmosphere of local fun and flavor.

To further improve the island’s gaming industry, multi-site progressive slots called Jackpot del Encanto were introduced to 13 casinos. These new slots allow customers to opt for a bigger prize of $20,000 or higher with betting a minimum of 40 cents and a maximum of $2.

Puerto Rico’s casinos are all conveniently located in or adjacent to some of the island’s most noteworthy hotels and resorts that are located along the gorgeous Caribbean coastline, and the most concentrated selection is found in San Juan and its surrounding suburbs. Isla Verde, a popular spot for visitors, is a fantastic area to start. This picturesque beachfront paradise is home to several high-rise hotels, many of which include casinos. A beacon of luxury, The Ritz-Carlton San Juan Hotel, Spa & Casino maintains the iconic brand’s signature level of swanky sophistication. The on-site The Casino includes traditional table games, more than 250 slot machines, and even luxury bingo seven days a week. At night, the chic bar and lounge next to the casino entrance pumps out live music and entertainment, and gamers can dine at cosmopolitan restaurants like Il Molino New York and BLT Steak.

At Casino del Sol at Courtyard by Marriott Isla Verde Beach Resort, guests can play the ponies with off-track betting during local horseraces. The casino also includes slot machines and tables, and the Picante Lounge features live Latin music and dancing, as well as cocktails and bites.

 

 

The intimate Oasis Casino at Embassy Suites San Juan Hotel is home to slot machines, seven gaming tables, and special promotions like bingo, multi-level progressive jackpots, and computerized player tracking systems.

In the exclusive oceanfront haven of Condado, the main drag of Ashford Avenue features upscale hotels, elegant eateries, local dive bars and, of course, spectacular casinos. San Juan Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino includes more than 360 machines for players of all risk levels, ranging from penny slots to $25 buy-ins. The massive casino floor also houses 26 table games with the highest betting limits in Puerto Rico. Players can try their luck at blackjack, mini baccarat, Caribbean stud poker, Texas hold ‘em, craps, roulette, and more. The casino even offers free gaming lessons daily from 6-7 p.m. as well as a weekly poker tournament on Thursdays.

Down the road, Casino del Mar at La Concha, A Renaissance Resort also invites guests and passersby to try their luck for nonstop 24/7 fun at the tables and the slots. With three types of blackjack, craps, poker, and baccarat, as well as the only local roulette table with a Luminar system and display and plasma screens broadcasting everything from the biggest games to breaking news, there’s always something exciting happening here. If you want to take a break from the casino’s spellbinding energy and get a bite to eat, you can visit Perla seafood restaurant that features a wine cellar with more than 4,000 bottles and over 1,000 labels; Solera, for tapas by poolside; Komakai Sushi Bar, to taste delicious sushi, sashimi and signature rolls; or stop by Serafina for a lively Italian dining experience.

Don’t shuffle out of town without spending time at Casino Metro at Sheraton Puerto Rico Hotel & Casino, home to San Juan’s largest casino. The site boasts more than 400 slot machines from pennies to dollars and from reel to video games; and some of the hottest new games. It also the only casino in San Juan that features the island’s Jackpot del Encanto. Casino Metro also offers 16 table games, including pai gow poker, three-card poker, baccarat, blackjack and the first and only electronic roulette table on the island. In between hands, players can enjoy live entertainment at its Metro Stage Live showcasing some of the top local acts or take an excursion to the Metro Lounge for music, dancing, signature cocktails, and more. Casino Metro is also home to the Ultimate Fighting Championship in Puerto Rico, where every month the fights are aired for free via pay-per-view.

 

The new slots called Jackpot del Encanto introduced to 13 casinos around the island allow customers to opt for a bigger prize of. $20,000 or higher with betting a minimum of 40 cents and a maximum of $2.
The new slots called Jackpot del Encanto introduced to 13 casinos around the island allow customers to opt for a bigger prize of. $20,000 or higher with betting a minimum of 40 cents and a maximum of $2.

 

El Tropical Casino at Hyatt Place Bayamon also offer distinctive atmospheres for players to hit, stick, fold, or go all in at the tables and get mesmerized by the spinning wheels and ringing bells of the slot machines. It has over 350 slots with denominations from 1 cent to $25 including the Tropical Casino properties’ exclusive Dragon Spin and Tropical Jackpot, which provides bonus and progressive rewards. The progressive level payout is awarded to the customer at that specific Tropical Casino where the winning slot is situated, while the shared grand prize (where the payout increases as a group starting at $10,000 with a guarantee payout before it reaches $15,000) can be awarded at any of the Tropical Casinos. It also has table games such as Blazing 7’s blackjack, craps and roulette. When you’re not in the mood for any more gambling, guests can visit the Sun Lounge to listen to live music, sing some karaoke or have some cocktails, wine or craft beer.

Roughly 20 miles from San Juan in the northern coastal valley is the Wyndham Grand Rio Mar Beach Resort & Spa, which resides on the outskirts of El Yunque National Rainforest. This comprehensive resort is home to 10 on-site restaurants and lounges, two championship golf courses, a full-service spa and a killer casino. Between meals, guests can indulge their gaming fantasies at Rio Mar Casino and when the action gets too hot at the tables, they can head into the Players Club sports bar, which features multiple plasma TV screens and a lively, festive ambiance.

Located on Puerto Rico’s picturesque south coast, overlooking historic Ponce’s crystal Caribbean waters and rugged, majestic mountains are the Hilton Ponce, the Ponce Plaza Hotel, and the Holiday Inn Ponce; all of which have high-energy casinos.

 

 

The Casino at Costa Caribe Resort Ponce Hilton is open 24/7 and showcases more than 330 slots, blackjack, poker, roulette and craps tables. The fun continues at its El Bohio Sports and Pool Bar and La Cava Restaurant, a swanky eclectic venue perfect for sharing appetizers along with a glass of your favorite wine or cocktail. The Casino de la Plaza at the Ponce Plaza Hotel has an exciting range of table games including blackjack, craps table, roulette, and bingo. The Casino has over 260 state-of-the-art slot machines and offers weekly entertainment. Though, when your stomach starts rumbling louder than a slot machine that hit a jackpot, it’s time to take a break and indulge your culinary taste at the award winning Lola Eclectic Cuisine and grab a nightcap at VIVA Bar.

And the Tropical Casino at the Holiday Inn Ponce also delights gamblers, gamers, and guests alike. Besides having over 300 slots that includes the exclusive Dragon Spin and Tropical Jackpot, it also exhilarates its guests with table games like Blazing 7’s blackjack, roulette, mini baccarat, Caribbean stud poker available 24/7. It has an exciting monthly events calendar, provides live music and karaoke on weekends as well as special dates and has bingo along with weekly raffles that include cars, cruises, and much more.

If heading west, then the charming town of Mayaguez, the third largest city in Puerto Rico, is a must-see location. It is considered the capital of the west coast, and Mayaguez is known for its ports, theater of arts, and houses the only zoo in
Puerto Rico.

While you’re there, stop and visit the Holiday Inn Mayaguez and test your luck at its Tropical Casino. This fun-filled gaming and entertainment facility, which offers its guests over 360 slots including the exclusive Dragon Spin and Tropical Jackpot, also raffles up to $12,000 worth in prizes which includes giving away cars at least six times a year and to provide some local culture it invites artisans twice a year to sell local goods at its casino entrance. You can’t forget to mention that there is a Fat Tuesday’s right next door, a fun spot to embrace the Mardi Gras philosophy with a frozen daiquiris in hand.

No matter where you choose to let it ride, be sure to visit your casino’s guest services desk to snag a frequent player’s rewards card. Just show the host or hostess your driver’s license and you can start accumulating points to spend on food and beverage, take advantage of discounted hotel rates, and participate in special promotions and giveaways.

Whether you’re high-stakes player or a cautious beginner, there’s no better Caribbean island to test your luck than in Puerto Rico.

Sultry and sexy speakeasies

By Peter Martin 9115

Long celebrated for its legendary nightlife, San Juan has earned the crown as the undisputed party capital of the Caribbean. From throbbing discos to perfectly disheveled dive bars, the revelry spills out into the streets on any given night along the cobbled lanes of the Old City, the funky byways of Santurce and the gleaming beachside strolls of Condado and Isla Verde.

2017

 

Take a step back in time, and into the cutting-edge of cocktail cultures, in one of Puerto Rico’s Prohibition-era watering holes.

Long celebrated for its legendary nightlife, San Juan has earned the crown as the undisputed party capital of the Caribbean. From throbbing discos to perfectly disheveled dive bars, the revelry spills out into the streets on any given night along the cobbled lanes of the Old City, the funky byways of Santurce and the gleaming beachside strolls of Condado and Isla Verde.

Mix in an evolving gastronomic scene and cocktail culture that are already unmatched in the region and that can hold their own with any foodie favorite destination, and it’s clear to see why Puerto Rico’s capital city scene continues to shine long after the sun goes down – and often even after it comes up again.

From lively sidewalk cafes and gastropub grub hubs to DJ-fueled dance floors and the roar of sports bars, Puerto Rico after dark serves up a place for all tastes.

While full-tilt fun can be easily found around virtually every corner, those in the know are finding urbane oases in the middle of the mix in speakeasy style bars, an emerging trend that traces its roots back to the Prohibition-era watering holes where the well-heeled kept the party going.

Cool and cosmopolitan, these clandestine hideaways may be tucked inside known establishments, essentially hidden in plain sight provided you can spot the secret entrance or, in some cases, are privy to the proper password that will open a path that is both a step back and in time and a step forward in Puerto Rico’s cocktail culture.

A good place to start the search is in Miramar, an increasingly hip but somewhat overlooked neighborhood that sits on the radar between Old San Juan, Condado, and Santurce.

But first thing’s first as zeroing in a speakeasy may first require a foray in cyberspace where Oveja Negra, a hidden bar located inside Mexican eatery Bartola, posts a daily password on Instagram. Secret code secured, the next task is to flush out the door posing as a bottle-lined shelf.

 

 

OK, now you’re in. Intimacy pervades. Vintage décor, sultry sounds, and crafted cocktails blend into a seductive mix. At once timeless while harking back to a time when such simple pleasures were more than a little illicit.

Down the street is Bar La Unidad, identifiable only by the three interlocking rings that mark its otherwise nondescript darkened doorway that leads from the Spartan exterior into an elegant interior. Soft light soaks into the polished mahogany bar and lush leather chairs and banquettes, providing just enough light to let you see the well-tailored bartenders expertly craft signature cocktails.

The sultry setting appears preserved in amber, a tone that is mirrored in the subdued lighting, and the stellar selection of top-shelf, small-batch bourbons, whiskeys and scotches as well as the ice-cold copper cups used to serve some of the mixologists’ stunningly satisfying blends.

As skilled as the staff is behind the bar, the kitchen crew is also up to the task, dishing out expertly executed bar bites ranging from tuna tartar and grilled octopus to sharply presented charcuterie and cheese plates.

 

Vintage décor, sultry sounds, and crafted cocktails blend into a seductive mix at Oveja Negra.
Vintage décor, sultry sounds, and crafted cocktails blend into a seductive mix at Oveja Negra.

 

Puerto Rico’s original speakeasy took shape inside La Factoria, one of the hottest bars along San Sebastian Street, the cobbled heart of the Old City’s pub scene and home to an epic annual street party that stretches over several days each January.

House-made cocktails are the name of the game at La Factoria, earning the hotspot a legion of locals and top billing among travelers in the few years since the business was opened by a pair of award-winning bartenders.

Step in off the street and sit down for a cocktail that likely combines a measure of some world-class spirit with a dash of house-crafted bitters, lavender syrup or ginger beer. Kick back on a couch under strings of lights as you look out the large open windows on the parade of partiers passing. But don’t stop there. Opt for the orange door and you’ll pass into a secret room where candlelight bouncing off mirrors plays beautifully across artworks and wine-based cocktail and cut crystal.

While their signature cocktails and food menus may vary, a common theme among the capital city’s cozy speakeasy bars is elegance and exclusivity. Their clientele is capped at a certain number meaning that the classic ambiance is never marked by jostling to get the bartenders attention or raised voices trying to be heard above the din. It’s a speakeasy – a place to converse, to sooth your soul, and to leave your cares at the hidden door.

Ultra-chic gourmet food hall at Paseo Caribe

By Amy Gordon 1545

El Mercado is a place for people to enjoy the best of what Puerto Rico has to offer. There’s never been a better time to experience the best of Puerto Rican gastronomy and culture than right now, thanks to El Mercado de Paseo Caribe in San Juan. This ultra-chic gourmet food hall in the multifaceted Paseo Caribe opened in October 2016 and draws hundreds of visitors each day.

El Mercado is a place for people to enjoy the best of what Puerto Rico has to offer

There’s never been a better time to experience the best of Puerto Rican gastronomy and culture than right now, thanks to El Mercado de Paseo Caribe in San Juan. This ultra-chic gourmet food hall in the multifaceted Paseo Caribe opened in October 2016 and draws hundreds of visitors each day.

In the heart of San Juan and just steps from the scenic waters of Condado Lagoon, Paseo Caribe is a luxury mixed-use development of high end boutiques, shops, restaurants, and residences. Paseo Caribe offers a perfect place for visitors to meet, shop, and dine. The lifestyle hub appeals to guests of all ages with activities ranging from interactive scavenger hunts to family-friendly entertainment to weekly Sunset Rhythms live music concerts.

And now, Paseo Caribe also boasts El Mercado, its very own indoor-outdoor swanky culinary market open 365 days a year with even some food stands operating as early as 7:00 a.m. and closing at 1:00 a.m.

“El Mercado is a place for people to enjoy the best of what Puerto Rico has to offer – nature’s bounty, delicious food and drink, contemporary fashion, art, music, and culture – all in one incredible oceanfront setting,” said Sam Kirschner, a partner at CPG Real Estate, which developed Paseo Caribe.

The impressive marketplace houses epicurean food stands from 15 of Puerto Rico’s best chefs, bakers, and purveyors. Spread over 19,000 square feet, El Mercado conveys an inviting trendy artsy atmosphere reflecting the Latin tradition on the island where guests can dine on a variety of delectable dishes ranging from piping hot Asian noodles to Jamaican-spiced jerk chicken. Walk around to check out your choices, and get ready for a chic meal with a view.

Start at La Hacienda, a well-known gourmet purveyor of cheese, meats, and produce. Hacienda tempts carnivores at The Meat Shop with burgers, terrines, and charcuterie. Or, diners can opt to eat at The Cheese Shop for cheese boards, sandwiches, macaroni and cheese and more, all prepared with a Puerto Rican flair.

 

 

Old-world Italian flavors waft from the kitchen at Nonna, a rustic dining experience that combines fresh simple ingredients, delicious recipes, and cutting-edge cooking techniques. Another mouthwatering eatery is Napolitana, which dishes out Italian staples like cheesy lasagna, tasty loaded calzones, pasta varieties, and Neapolitan style brick oven pizza topped with a variety of the freshest ingredients and homemade sauce. Mediterranean Market focuses on cuisine from its eponymous region, ranging from Greek dishes like pan-seared octopus to gnocchi and other Italian specialties.

For meals of Asian persuasion, try The Noodle Merchant or Himalaya Co. The former serves noodle-based dishes that draw upon the flavors of Thailand and Vietnam, while the latter features a menu of bento boxes and steamed buns made with proteins like beef short rib, braised pork and crispy chicken.

Diners can almost taste the passion that’s in every bite at the farm-to-table, Puerto Rican-style restaurant Finca, which features a menu that changes seasonally depending on what’s available from local farmers. Stop by Aroma Latino for cuisine inspired by islands across the Caribbean, with dishes like Jamaican-style jerk chicken and Cuban-style ropa vieja.

For seafood prepared using time-tested, family recipes, try El Pescador. This stand offers a fresh yet light seafood menu that includes fish and Caribbean or Maine lobster tapas that are prepared in front of you in ways that honor its delicate flavors and textures. Also on the menu are steamed oysters, clams and mussels.

Or, if you love traditional Puerto Rican mofongo, you’re sure to enjoy El Pilon de Ana by Restaurant Doña Ana. From the minds behind Cafe de Doña Ana in Bayamon, the eatery uses local ingredients like yucca, sweet plantains, and breadfruit to make this celebrated island dish.

Fresh breads, flaky croissants, delicate pastries, and hearty sandwiches take center stage at Levain Bakery, which expands its Puerto Rican presence with this new outpost. Carb-aholics can satisfy their sweet tooth at another local bakery, Double Cake, which makes from-scratch treats in signature flavors like dulce de leche, almond tiramisu, and maple bacon. Senor Paleta, the artisanal gelato and sorbet popsicle which draws crowds to its stores across the island, even created a special menu just for El Mercado.

Visitors above drinking age are sure to cozy up to the bar at
Coctel, the centerpiece of the market. The bartenders here are true cocktail mixologists, creating killer combinations using fine liquor, fresh juice, and natural ingredients. Coffee connoisseurs can follow their noses to the rich flavors that waft from behind the counter at Alto Grande Coffee Bar, which sources its beans from the highest mountains on the island.

Just as enticing as El Mercado’s food is its striking ambiance featuring four magnificent murals inspired by artists of Puerto Rico. Renowned artist Tom Christopher of New York recruited art students from Escuela de Artes Plasticas y Diseño de Puerto Rico to help create the masterpieces that celebrate the hardworking men and women of the island. The market also hosts art exhibits curated by local artists, museums, galleries, and collectors as well as local musicians to further provide a festive ambiance. “The continually rotating art exhibits and music of El Mercado will give visitors a reason to return to Paseo Caribe again and again,” said Jacob Manevich, vice president of leasing for CPG.

Be sure to stop by during your stay in Puerto Rico – and don’t forget to bring your epicurean appetite.

Drink up the atmosphere at a bar with a view

By Peter Martin 2118

The island has plenty of hotspots to guarantee a drink-with-a-view experience. Puerto Rico’s sizzling nightlife is the hottest in the Caribbean, but you will want to make sure you take the time to drink up the atmosphere by laying back in a bar with a spectacular view.

2017

The island has plenty of hotspots to guarantee a drink-with-a-view experience

Puerto Rico’s sizzling nightlife is the hottest in the Caribbean, but you will want to make sure you take the time to drink up the atmosphere by laying back in a bar with a spectacular view.

There are rooftop, ocean view, pool, Spanish colonial garden, and grandiose lobby bars from which to choose. These bars are surrounded by the elements of the island’s natural beauty, or a discerning artistic or cultural expression, and because looking good is the national sport on the island, the surrounding crowds are always pleasing to the eye.

At the Mist Rooftop Bar at San Juan Water Beach Club Hotel, you get a glorious view from early in the day to deep into the night. The enviable vista overlooks the white Isla Verde beach as it unfolds eastward between the verdant row of palm trees and royal blue ocean on one side, and the skyline of Isla Verde, glittering with towering hotels and condos, on the other. You can sit at the bar, or at one of the terrace seating areas, and soak up the awesome coastal view, but there is a pleasurable scene anywhere you look around this heavenly place, which is outfitted with fine art, designer pieces, and furniture as comfortable as it is chic.

Mist is a favorite spot because it delivers beyond its awesome appearance an artisan preparation of tropical drinks and gourmet cocktails and a kitchen that serves up wonderful tapas, which are perfect to dine beneath the stars. The unique, rustic pizzas and seafood appetizers will fulfill your expectations. The spot grooves all week long but things heat up a bit on weekend nights with house DJs spinning seductive electronica and house music.

Another Isla Verde spot to cue up sensational views is the Q-Bar at the InterContinental San Juan, which embodies two worlds: the elegant, brass and wood-toned lobby bar and an outdoor terrace surrounded by lush tropical gardens and vibrant pool deck. You can drink it all through the Q-Bar’s panoramic windows, with the lobby bar perfect for mingling, and the outdoor area providing quiet dreamy spots surrounded by flora, gleaming water, and lights. There’s a short tapas menu with delicious selections, but the gourmet sandwiches rule.

 

 

El San Juan Hotel has been catering to discriminating locals and jet-setting globetrotters since opening in 1957, and its gorgeous lobby remains the spot to see and be seen after a $40 million renovation. The renovation closed the hotel in late 2016, but its rebirth has brought it back better than ever.

Most of the work was done to the guestrooms. The hotel’s grand lobby, with a dazzling chandelier and Old World mahogany facade, underwent a bit of updating but still retains its classic elegant feel. Everybody loves the lobby so much, changes have been kept to a minimum, explains El San Juan chief experience officer Wesley Cullen.

The lobby remains El San Juan’s iconic feature, where Spanish big bands perform live on weekend nights, and well-dressed crowds sashay across the big, beautiful room. For decades, the lobby has retained the consistent ambiance of a sophisticated party that might have been thrown by Great Gatsby author F. Scott Fitzgerald and his wife Zelda, with a sense of roaring 20s splendor. The renovation is aimed at retaining that wonderful sense of elegance.

The well-known Chandelier Bar, beneath its fabulous sparkling namesake, remains the center of attention, but it has been renovated and refreshed. The Gold Bar is the now the spot for craft drinks and crazy cocktails, while the Wine Bar has world-class selections of the world’s finest wines. And the lobby’s El Cafecito serves food from early morning to past midnight in the lobby area.

The renovation, however, has opened up the lobby a bit, so that the view of the adjacent Chico Cabaret, where bands perform nightly, is better from anywhere in the large room. The renovation is also restoring the Tropicoro Theater to its past glory. Designed by the same architect of the Tropicana Hotel in Havana, Cuba, the 400-seat theater has featured performances by world-class stars since the 1950s. Club Brava nightclub also underwent renovations.

While the restoration was aimed at restoring El San Juan’s glamorous past, the revitalization of the property also included a revamping of the entire visitor experience, be you a bar patron or a hotel guest, with new venues and activities. The hotel now hosts a live music series and art show calendar, with talented local and international artists. The resort’s culinary offerings were also overhauled during the renovation.

 

 

The views are also fine over in Condado, San Juan’s other beachfront district, with amazing vistas the length of its oceanside boulevard, which is bordered by the Atlantic coast on one side, and the Condado Lagoon on the other.

At the Caribe Hilton’s Caribar its enchanting scene has drawn visitors since 1949, when Puerto Rico’s first resort opened and guests from around the world first started falling head over heels for Puerto Rico.

The large circular bar, which commands its own room beside the Caribe Hilton’s main lobby, has kept its iconic charm over the years, with the various renovations over time serving only to buff and polish this gem of a spot, a force in the contemporary world that brings with it that classic Hollywood charm.

The enormous room has floor to ceiling windows that open over the lush pool area and gorgeous aqua-white beach, with a view of the dramatic Atlantic Ocean that has captivated generations. It also has a view, with gorgeous crowds pressed against the bar, or spread out throughout the spacious bar table area that runs the length of the ocean view. There’s always great music playing and constant sea breezes.

Caribar is the birthplace of the Piña Colada, said to be concocted in 1954 by popular bartender Ramon ‘Monchito’ Marrero His original secret formula consisted of Don Q Gold rum, Coco Lopez, cream, and pineapple juice. The Caribar’s classic coladas are the islands best, and it also offers several versions that have been created over the years, from 1971’s “painkiller” to the “contemporary, clean, and complex” Clear Colada. This classic nightspot also has a bar menu of other hand-crafted cocktails and classic drinks, like the Moscow Mule, and Trader Vic’s Mai Tai.

The bartenders and wait staff are pros, and they mix drinks with the rhythm, skill and style of Puerto Rico’s best salsa dancers and performers, and they deliver flawless, low-key service. The bar menu has local fritter and charcuterie & artisan cheese board platters, as well as other fare ranging from charred octopus to delectable pub burgers.

The Red Coral Lounge, the main lobby bar at the San Juan Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino, is a handsome dark wood and tile room, with spare natural but modernist elements that overlooks both the bustling Ashford Avenue and the lush pool and beachfront areas. The San Juan Marriott has an enviable location in the heart of the Condado, and its open, airy structure blends in with its surroundings on a particularly attractive slice of beach. But if you stayed here any time at all, you’ll know the property’s best feature is not its location, but its staff and the genuinely caring service they bring you.

 

The Red Coral Lounge at San Juan Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino overlooks both the bustling Ashford Avenue and de lush pool and beachfront areas.
The Red Coral Lounge at San Juan Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino overlooks both the bustling Ashford Avenue and de lush pool and beachfront areas.

 

The Red Coral Lounge is no exception, and your bartenders also know how to make a drink. Its renowned Dragon Berry Mojito is worth a try, as is the superb Red Coral Ice Tea. The bar’s sushi and tapas menu is an unexpected pleasure, with such delights as the spicy and sweet firecracker shrimp eggroll and the chef roll special, which combines salmon, scallops, and spicy crab with avocado, scallions, and sweet plantain.

By day, the colorful pool and beach beckons through the windows — a shimmering paradise of sun and surf. While at night, the dazzling light of Ashford Avenue, lined with boutiques, bars, and restaurants pours through the lounge’s large front doors and windows.

The Red Coral always draws a crowd, with its adjacent casino one of the best in the city and live music nearly every night, from piano ballads to salsa bands to full Latin jazz orchestras. The image most likely to linger in your memory after bidding goodbye will be of beautiful people, laughing with joy as they shimmy to the sound of tropical rhythm.

 

Eternal Lobby Lounge at the Condado Plaza Hilton.
Eternal Lobby Lounge at the Condado Plaza Hilton.

 

Get decked out to fit in at the dreamy Eternal Lobby Lounge at the Condado Plaza Hilton. New York’s hip lounge scene meets South Beach style at this ultra-contemporary nightlife complex with its colorful, post-modern finish right at home in the tropics. The long, translucent bar lies across its ocean view, and there is a terrace seating area to drink in all the drama of the Atlantic.

The sprawling nightspot consists of a dance floor and three bars: Moon Bar, Ice Bar, and Fire Bar. On most nights, live DJs spin contemporary hits and the best dance music from the 70s, 80s, and 90s. There is also a stage for live music performances and other special events.

It also has some of the most inventive drinks in town, and the bartenders and servers are on top of their game. You can order food here from the excellent Eight Noodle Bar upstairs, among the best Chinese in the city.

 

 

Between Condado and downtown Santurce is Asere Cuban Kitchen Bar. The bright establishment has a beautiful bar that runs the length of its front room, which creates a subtle, worldly yet whimsical blend from its wood, brass, and tile facades. Located at the Plaza del Mercado, Santurce’s traditional marketplace district, its bar called La Carniceria is situated on the second level of a two-story building designed to make guests live the experience of visiting the legendary Cuba of the 50’s and the clandestine world of the subterranean. The spacious bar overlooks La Placita so guests can enjoy a delicious selection of cocktails while delighting their senses with great music and the infectious energy of one of San Juan’s most visited party scenes on Thursday and Friday nights, when it becomes one big street celebration.

Asere Cuban kitchen is the spot in San Juan for a mojito, and there is a variety from which to choose, as well as a range of craft cocktails. Not only is this a spot with a view, and the perfect hangout, it’s also serves some of the best new food in town.

The rooftop Infinity Pool Bar & Grille at the Sheraton Puerto Rico hotel offers a panoramic view from its perch in the heart of the convention district that captures vibrant ocean and bay views, as well as the city’s varied cityscape, from the gleaming condo towers of Condado to Spanish colonial splendor. There are bunches of towering palm trees and a view of the yachts at two adjacent marinas. From the rooftop, you can also see small planes taking off, many bound for Vieques and Culebra, from a commuter airport in the immediate area.

The infinity pool stretching across the roof also contributes to the expansive view, and with plush terrace sofas and cabanas, as well as a great bar and grill, there is nowhere else you will want to be on a splendid San Juan afternoon. It makes for a perfect light lunch or early dinner, or you could make a day of it and romp by the pool, while imbibing. There is an impressive menu of tropical cocktails and frozen drinks, and a simple menu that delivers with great taste. You can’t go wrong with the chino Latino wrap, fresh fish tacos, mahi mahi skewers, or guava chicken wings.

The rooftop Infinity Pool Bar & Grill at the Sheraton Puerto Rico Hotel offers panoramic views of the ocean, San Juan bay and cityscape.
The rooftop Infinity Pool Bar & Grill at the Sheraton Puerto Rico Hotel offers panoramic views of the ocean, San Juan bay and cityscape.

 

Alaire at Vivo Beach Club lies beyond the airport, on the coastal road to Piñones. The gleaming resort and entertainment complex beckons visitors like an Oz of sensory pleasure from its perch along the gorgeous unspoiled beachfront. This rooftop bar-restaurant blends into its natural surroundings along a wild stretch of coast just east of San Juan, framed by rolling sand dunes, a wall of towering palm trees, and scattered patches of Caribbean pine forest.

The hand-crafted tapas and cocktails, and Caribbean grill entrees served here match the quality of the surroundings to provide patrons with exotic satisfaction.

There are also live DJs and bands performing at the beach club, which boasts plush chairs, gazebos, and gorgeous pool areas. There is always something going on day and night, a place that lives up to its name “vivo.” So make sure to check for special events while you are on the island. Cruise ship visitors can enjoy day-long excursions to the club for the best views and beach experience in San Juan.

To the east of San Juan, the Atrium Bar at the Wyndham Grand Rio Mar Beach Resort & Spa in Rio Grande offers clients views of the surrounding El Yunque rainforest, a world of wet, green tropical foliage. From its perch on the second floor, the bar gives a heightened view to this outdoor realm. The room has a Spanish hacienda-style feel, with large mosaic tiles, wrought iron and a dark wood roof and bar. The wicker and other traditional furniture is as comfortable as it is gorgeous, while the large palms wed the interior to the lush, wild world of beauty just outside, visible nearly everywhere you look.

This Old World Caribbean room is one of the finest spots in the region to enjoy a drink, and the bartenders know how to make a cocktail, something straight up or whatever else you may require. Savor the libation during your stay, which you’ll remember as a visit back in time.

Las Olas Lounge at El Conquistador, A Waldorf Astoria Resort is halfway down the cliffside on which the sprawling property is situated, and there are killer vistas from this fabulous room with a view. There are ever changing menus, and extensive martini, margarita, and tequila cocktail versions.

The bar overlooks one of Puerto Rico’s most majestic scenery, with Vieques and Culebra in the distance and the Eastern Caribbean unfolding beyond, an expansive of deep blue sea, the closest thing to aquatic heaven on earth. You can also take in the resort’s marina, a small fishing village, much of the resort sprawling across this bluff at the northeastern headland of Puerto Rico, and the virgin coastline beyond. This is where the Atlantic parts with the Caribbean, the eastern and northern coasts meet in an expanse of protective natural coastline, an area with healthy reefs and sea turtle nests, miles of unspoiled beach and pristine waters.

 

 

The northwest also has awesome sights, nowhere more so than at Villa de Cofresi, a family run hotel on one of Rincon’s finest beaches, with a formal restaurant and an outdoor bar and cafe with one of the finest panoramas in the Caribbean. El Bohio bar is on a wooden deck behind the hotel and is famous for its amazing beachfront location making it the place to spend happy hour watching the sunset.

Have their house drink, the pirata, a special concoction of rum, fresh coconut water, milk and spices served in a green coconut shell that has been freshly hacked open with a machete, and start chatting with the animated bartenders, and kiss the afternoon goodbye. We’re told the coconut meat also lends to the Pirate’s special drink’s unique taste which has had guests returning the hotel for more than 40 years.

It just takes one look to know there is no other other place you would want at the moment. The family run spot has super friendly, charming staff, and the food and drinks are great, while the price is right. Whether you want to seek air-conditioned refuge inside, or stick with the fun on the El Bohio’s outdoor deck, you can order entrees from anywhere. The place is loads of fun! One of the best places in the world to be during Sunday happy hour – period!

Tamboo Tavern and Seaside Grill Restaurant at Beside the Pointe Guesthouse on Sandy Beach in Rincon is also situated on a stunningly beautiful stretch of beach. The bar and restaurant are largely located in a wooden terrace fronting the beach and ocean behind the guest house, and extends along its length on a wooden outdoor terrace. Its Mojitos are so special that Bacardi Rum awarded this bar twice the Best Mojito award. Magazines like Travel + Leisure, Conde Nast Travel, CNN GO, and Esquire have praised this bar. The folks at Tamboo say their signature Mojito is different than most others because of its delicate balance of syrup, rum, lime, mint, and club soda. The real difference may be that Tamboo bartenders don’t crush the mint thus avoiding clogged straws and providing a more pleasant experience for the customer. Another infamous concoction at Tamboo Tavern is the Jibarito Martini, which is a tropical blend of rum, apple puckers, sour mix, a dash of Sprite and a Caribbean cherry.

Tamboo Tavern is a popular spot for the surfing set, because the food is awesome and authentic, and the drinks are to die for. This is truly one of the best oceanfront landscapes in Puerto Rico.

If you’re searching for the latest hotspot to unwind and soak up the sun, gaze at the stars, perch by the pool, watch the fashionistas, or take in breathtaking views of the Atlantic, there are plenty of bars in Puerto Rico to guarantee a drink-with-a-view experience.